The brand "Maison Noumu," helmed by fashion designer Takayuki Abe, has its quiet atelier on the site of a former farm in Otofuke, Hokkaido. The leather bags, wallets, and other pieces born in this studio are all exquisitely beautiful.

Takayuki Abe, a native of Obihiro, graduated from Obihiro Sanjo High School and went on to study fashion design at the Vantan Design Institute in Tokyo. He was selected for the Nagoya Fashion Contest and, in 2010, won both the Award for Excellence and a Special Award at the New Designer Fashion Grand Prix, the world's largest fashion competition by number of entries.

This achievement earned him the right to study abroad at NABA (Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti), a graduate school of fine arts in Milan, Italy. The following year, he graduated at the top of his class from Vantan Design Institute and moved to Milan.

While studying, he engaged in a wide range of activities, including participating in an animation exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. His work was highly praised by world-renowned fashion designers like Romeo Gigli and Cinzia Ruggeri, and he held a solo exhibition in Milan titled "dear lovers," marking him as a promising new talent.

Later, Takayuki Abe dedicated his efforts to supporting people with disabilities through artistic activities such as illustration and clothes making. In 2018, he held an exhibition in Aoyama, Tokyo, titled "Ningen no Arika" (The Place of Being Human), featuring works created with people with various disabilities. On September 11, 2021, he established his atelier in Otofuke and launched his own brand, "noumu." The brand name "noumu" means "dense fog," and he creates modern, profound, and striking pieces using leather materials.

The catalyst for his return from Milan to Hokkaido was a bout of major depression. Unable to give up, he returned to Milan once, but his symptoms worsened, leading to his permanent return to Japan five months later. He then spent over five years battling the illness. During this time, he encountered the philosophy of psychiatrist and philosopher Viktor Frankl, which became one of the inspirations for his brand concept for "noumu."

"After a rather grueling battle with my illness, my once-fantastical concepts evolved into a more philosophical and existential approach to creation. Objects are replaceable, but every human being is an irreplaceable existence, aren't they? My work transformed into a philosophical endeavor to pursue the value of existence that humans can realize in life, by having an irreplaceable individual encounter a single piece of clothing, a leather bag, or a leather wallet in this irreplaceable world."

Looking around the atelier, one notices the abundance of leather works. When asked why, he explains.

"I've been working almost exclusively with leather since I was a student. By a stroke of luck, Italy, where I studied, is famous for its leather, so I was naturally drawn into its allure. I love the feeling that the clothes are breathing. It feels like it's been in harmony with the laws of nature ever since our primitive ancestors wore animal hides."

Most of the clothes on display are leather. And they are all one-size. There's a significant reason for this as well.

"I do accept custom orders, but the clothes I make have lot numbers. I only use precious deadstock fabrics, so I can only make one or two pieces. Don't you think there's something dramatic and wonderful about the story of a garment—one of only one or two in the world—being guided by fate, its size and design finding its way into someone's hands? At noumu, I want to offer not just clothes, but that kind of precious, valuable experience."

Many fans are drawn to the philosophy behind noumu's creations, and some visit regularly to carefully find their perfect one-of-a-kind piece. While the works themselves are captivating, many people surely look forward to conversations with the designer. Though a bit shy at first, he gradually opens up about himself, sharing stories from his time in Italy and insights into his designs.

He also speaks openly about his battle with illness and, out of a desire to support others struggling with depression, holds art-based recovery activities at his atelier about once a week.

His gentle smile suits him so well, it's hard to believe he suffered from illness.

Currently, the atelier offers not only noumu's works but also tools for leather maintenance and a variety of miscellaneous goods that he personally likes.

noumu is an inspiring atelier in Tokachi that feels a bit like Italy, a fashion shop that feels like a visit to a museum. Why not visit in search of your own one-of-a-kind encounter?

Maison noumu

■Address: 59-9 Higashiwa Higashi 2-sen, Otofuke, Kato-gun, Hokkaido
■Hours: Tue/Wed 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM / Sat 12:00 PM - 6:00 PM
*Appointments available on other days.

■Instagram: nou.mu