"Kokuhan" is a type of sticky rice served at funerals and memorial services

Kokuhan is a type of okowa, or sticky rice, made with black soybeans. While it is widely eaten throughout Hokkaido, similar customs also exist in other regions, such as parts of the Tohoku region, Ishikawa Prefecture, and Chiba. In Hokkaido, it's common to use glutinous rice for the rice portion, but in other areas, some regions use regular rice instead. There are also subtle differences in the black soybeans, which can be either plain or seasoned.

There are various theories as to why kokuhan came to be eaten at funerals and memorial services in Hokkaido, but the exact reason remains unclear. One prevailing theory suggests that it did not originate in Hokkaido but was introduced by people who moved to Hokkaido from all over Japan during the Meiji era, after which the culture spread throughout the island.

It typically has a salty flavor, similar to sekihan (red bean rice)

Kokuhan has a salty flavor, much like sekihan made with adzuki beans. The black soybeans are not sweet like the ones eaten for New Year's; they are typically slightly firm. It is eaten with a sprinkle of gomashio (sesame salt). Often, the bento box also contains thin slices of bright red pickled ginger (beni shoga), which is another way it differs from regular okowa.

To buy it, you need to order from a caterer or bento shop

Kokuhan is not something you'll find in the bento section of supermarkets or convenience stores on a daily basis. You need to order it from a catering service or a bento shop. Some places may sell individual portions, so it's best to check with the shop if you want to get some. If you'd like to try making it yourself, you can. If you have a dry pack of cooked black soybeans, you can simply mix them into the glutinous rice after it's cooked.

Are there many people who don't know about kokuhan?

The culture of eating kokuhan at funerals and memorial services can be seen as a counterpart to eating sekihan (red bean rice) on celebratory occasions. Since it's not a dish that appears on the daily dinner table, many people may not even be aware that it's a widespread food culture in Hokkaido. Why not take this opportunity to become more interested in the various unique cultural aspects of Hokkaido?