Three Reasons for the Decline of Eki Soba in Hokkaido

The nationally famous eki soba at JR Otoineppu Station was known for its distinctively dark-colored noodles (circa 2017).

Eki soba shops used to be found all over, so why have so many disappeared recently? While there are likely various factors, here are three major reasons.

1. The Disappearance of Overnight Trains

An overnight train bound for Aomori waiting to depart from JR Sapporo Station (circa 2015).

In the past, numerous overnight trains ran from JR Sapporo Station to various destinations both within and outside Hokkaido. It was a common sight to see travelers slurping down a bowl of kake soba or tempura soba at the station to prepare for a long journey, then buying an ekiben, alcohol, and snacks for the ride. Today, there are no overnight trains operating in Hokkaido, and such scenes have vanished.

2. Increased Competition from Convenience Stores and Other Businesses

Is it now common to buy things at a convenience store before boarding a limited express train?

Although overnight trains are gone, many limited express trains still run from JR Sapporo Station to various parts of Hokkaido. Before you board a limited express train, don't you often buy drinks and food at a convenience store?

During the Showa era (1926-1989), convenience stores were scarce, so using eki soba, buying ekiben, or relying on on-board sales was the norm. Since the Heisei era (1989-2019), the number of convenience stores and other types of shops has exploded. On-board sales have also been discontinued, making it standard practice to buy provisions before boarding. This has significantly reduced the role of eki soba.

3. Fewer Long-Stop Trains and Fewer Trains Overall

The former eki soba shop inside JR Otoineppu Station (circa 2017).

JR Otoineppu Station, famous for its eki soba, was a key railway hub connecting the Soya Main Line and the Tenpoku Line (which closed in 1989). As a result, many trains stopped there for extended periods or started/terminated their journeys. To meet the demand from transferring passengers and those on long stops, a soba shop was originally located on the platform. Even after the Tenpoku Line closed, the shop moved to the station's waiting room and continued to operate for many years. Sadly, it closed in 2021 following the passing of the owner.

When I spoke with the owner in the 2010s, he mentioned that even then, the vast majority of his customers were people visiting the station during a drive, rather than railway passengers. He explained, "The reason is that the line was closed, the number of trains has decreased year by year, and there are fewer trains that stop for a long time."

Eki Soba: An Essential Food Culture for Trains and Travel!

The second most popular item at the JR Sapporo Station platform soba shop: "Tempura Soba." (Image: Sapporo Eki Tateuri Shokai)

Despite the declining number of eki soba shops, the ones on the platforms of JR Sapporo Station are constantly trying new things. They have introduced ticket machines with English menus and sample photos for the growing number of foreign tourists, allowing them to order by number. They have also added new menu items, such as Nishin soba (herring soba), unique to Hokkaido, and hot snacks like Tori Zangi (Hokkaido-style fried chicken), takoyaki, and yakitori to cater to the demand for light meals.

Standing soba shops, where you can get a cheap, hot meal quickly, are a long-standing culinary pleasure of train travel. The company that runs the shops on the JR Sapporo Station platforms also manages ekiben and catering services, as the soba shops alone are not profitable. However, they say they continue to operate on the platforms "to preserve the culture of eki soba."

Next time you're heading to New Chitose Airport from JR Sapporo Station, if you go up to the platform just 10 minutes early, you'll have enough time to quickly enjoy a bowl of kake soba. The future of this precious food culture, essential to trains and travel, may just depend on us.

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