When you think of Hokkaido's soul food, "Zangi" (Hokkaido-style fried chicken) often comes to mind. But to truly understand the region's chicken cuisine, you must know about "Wakadori no Torisei," a chain centered in the Tokachi region. In Tokachi, it's a beloved soul food on par with "Indian's Curry" and "Heiwaen's Yakiniku." We'll delve into the reasons behind the deliciousness that has been cherished by locals for over 50 years since its founding.

The head office is in Shimizu Town, about a 40-minute drive west of Obihiro.

While Tokachi is known as a dairy farming region, the young chicken from "Torisei" is loved for everything from dinner entrees to snacks with drinks. The predecessor, a yakitori shop named "Torisei," opened in Tokachi's Shimizu Town in 1971, and the first "Wakadori no Torisei" restaurant opened in 1978. Since then, the chain has expanded mainly in the Tokachi region and now has 20 locations, including in Kushiro and Sapporo. Its local popularity is immense; it's an indispensable local staple not only for everyday meals but also for special occasions like Christmas, when sales can triple or quadruple.

A commemorative photo from the grand reopening of the main branch in 1983.

The chicken, the oil, the artisan's skill—if any one of these is missing, it wouldn't be the taste of "Torisei." Each element of their dedication is a decisive factor in creating a flavor that can't be found anywhere else. For this article, we spoke with them at their head office in Shimizu Town, Tokachi, and at the Ebetsu Nopporo branch near JR Nopporo Station in Ebetsu City.

The "Wakadori no Torisei Ebetsu Nopporo Branch" where we conducted our interview.

The beautifully browned and fragrant "Charcoal-Grilled Chicken" for 1,100 yen (1,050 yen at the Shimizu main branch and other branches in the Obihiro/Tokachi area).

The chicken is renowned for having no gamey taste, making it endlessly enjoyable. The secret lies in how the chickens are raised. They use young chicks, no more than 30 days old, sourced from contract farms in places like Nakasatsunai Village. The chicks are raised on a special feed called "Jiyoso," which contains wood vinegar, seaweed, and mugwort. This feed reduces the distinctive gamey smell and excess fat to a minimum, resulting in a rich, flavorful meat. This meat is then cooked on a custom-made grill to bring out its ultimate umami.

Special tongs are used to grill the chicken without damaging the surface of the meat.

The signature dish of Torisei is undoubtedly the "Charcoal-Grilled Chicken." They use charcoal made from Nara oak, which takes about 3 to 4 hours to light. Once the heat stabilizes, the charcoal is broken into smaller pieces with a crowbar and packed tightly onto the grill. This eliminates temperature inconsistencies and allows for even, constant heat. The chefs then carefully adjust the cooking for different parts of the meat, like thicker sections or the tips, grilling it for about 30 minutes to slowly draw out the flavor. It's a true display of artisanal skill.

The "Karaage" is never prepared in advance; it's fried fresh to order. 1,100 yen (1,050 yen at the Shimizu main branch and other branches in the Obihiro/Tokachi area).

As popular as the charcoal-grilled chicken, the "Karaage" (fried chicken) is praised for being even lighter, as the charcoal-grilling process removes excess fat. Thanks to their original grain oil, it has a crispy and light texture. Since the meat is naturally low in fat, you can truly taste the authentic flavor of the chicken. Both the charcoal-grilled chicken and karaage are available for takeout. In fact, Torisei's menu is so well-regarded for being delicious even when cold that about half of their business comes from takeout orders.

Yuki Murase, the second-generation owner of the Ebetsu Nopporo branch. The rhythmic and precise way he grills the meat is a true display of craftsmanship.

The Ebetsu Nopporo branch, which opened in 1980, is one of the long-loved locations. It moved to its current location eight years ago as part of a local redevelopment project. In addition to charcoal-grilled chicken and karaage, the menu features izakaya-style items like yakitori, salads, and other small dishes, all of which are popular. The restaurant is bustling not only with office workers stopping by for a drink after work but also with families enjoying dinner.

The interior has 38 booth seats, 32 koagari (raised tatami floor) seats, and 4 counter seats.

The spacious interior is filled with the appetizing aroma of charcoal. It's conveniently located just a 4-minute walk from JR Nopporo Station. In recent years, it has also become a popular spot for baseball fans after games, as it's near a shuttle bus stop for "ES CON FIELD HOKKAIDO." If you're worried about it being full, it's a good idea to call ahead. Also, since the grilled chicken takes time to prepare, calling in your takeout order in advance will ensure a smooth pickup.

The Murase family who runs the restaurant. From left: Tomiko, Yuki, and Sachiko.

※All prices include tax.

Wakadori no Torisei Ebetsu Nopporo Branch

■Address: 58-10 Nopporo-cho, Ebetsu-shi
■Hours: 16:00 - 0:00
■Closed: 1st-3rd Tuesdays of the month
Click here for details and map information for "Wakadori no Torisei Ebetsu Nopporo Branch"

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